Japan trip day 7: Tokyo (July 22nd, 2009)

(Wednesday)

Bought Hakone free passes and boarded the Odakyu Romancecar express train from Shinjuko. When we arrived at Hakone-Yumoto, we first ate a snack at the train station. Then we went outside the station to the tourist information center to get a detailed timetable and map. Then we took the Hakone Tozan train from Hakone to Gora. This was a slow train, and it waited for the train on the other direction to pass before proceeding. From Gora we took the cablecar train to Sounzan.

From Sounzan we took a ropeway to Owakudani. The clouds were very low, so the gondola rode through the cloud in a strong wind. Visibility was extremely low. We could barely see the gondolas passing in the opposite direction when they were close. We could only see the cables carrying the gondola and nothing more.

The highest point of the ropeway, Owakudani, was inside the cloud. We ate lunch in the sky restaurant in Owakudani station building. Then I took Dan and Shirley outside the station building in order to walk along the nature trail and cook eggs in the hot water spring. Once we exited the station building, we walked inside a thick cloud. Visibility was limited to a few yards. Somebody in a convenience store showed us a sign to the nature trail. We followed the signs downhill until visibility improved. After 30 minutes of hiking down the trail we did not reach any destination, so we decided to backtrack. We walked up the steps to the station building. We probably did not walk along the correct path after all. Dan filmed a cloud spilling over a valley and filling it completely within 10 seconds.

From Owakudani we took the ropeway to Togendai. I planned to take the boat across Lake Ashi from Togendai, but the boat ride was cancelled due to the weather. We then took a bus back to Hakone-Yamato station. I could not get seats on the express train back to Tokyo, so I got tickets to a slower train. This train took more than two hours to reach Shinjuku station in Tokyo. Most other passengers used the long train ride to eat their dinner.

Japan trip day 6: Tokyo (July 21st, 2009)

(Tuesday)

Watched the department store opening ritual at 10am in the Q-Tokyu department store: all employees bow to the customers. Bought a belt and hankerchiefs for Dan at Q-Tokyu. Visited the Loft (Saibu Annex) store. Saw a watch that Dorit liked. Ate lunch in a small restaurant in the Shibuya 109 store (a fashion store for young women).

It was raining constantly. Everybody placed their wet umbrellas in thin plastic bags before entering stores, and threw away those bags on exit. This is a terrible waste of resources!

Watched the English version of the 6th Harry Potter movie in Shibuya.

Japan trip day 5: Tokyo (July 20th, 2009)

(Monday)

We took the Tobu line's Limited Express train to Nikko from Asakusa station. I bought a day pass for bus. We got off the bus to get money at the local post office. We ate lunch in a small restaurant owned by two elderly women. The walls and ceiling of the restaurant were covered with business cards and thank-you notes of past patrons. We had Yakitori (pieces of chicken on wooden skewers), which were very tasty. We then walked to the Toshogu Shrine.

At first we visited the Rinnoji Temple, and we joined a guided tour of a Japanese group. We could not go past them. We then asked directions to the Toshogu Shrine. By the time we reached the shrine both Rena and Shirley were exhausted. Dan did not want to climb the steps to the shrine, so I went up to see the shrine and take some pictures.

We walked downhill from the Toshogu Shrine to the bus station among tall trees. Then we took the bus to the Nikko Tamozawa Imperial Villa. It is a large structure with many rooms and interior gardens, but devoid of furniture. The floors were covered with mats. We then walked around the villa's garden. The villa has wooden shutters, which are installed at night or inclement weather.

We took the bus back to the train station. There was no room in the express train, so I got tickets for a regular train. We bought some food for the train ride back to Tokyo.

Japan trip day 4: Tokyo (July 19th, 2009)

(Sunday)

Went to Starbucks across from Shibuya crossing (Hachiko exit), which is considered the busiest intersection in the world. Ate sandwiches with English explanation of the content. The intersection did not seem to be so busy.

Took Dan, Shirley and Rena to Meiji Jinju shrine. When we arrived to the shrine entrance, Rena complained about a foot pain. Returned to the hotel with her. Then took only Dan and Shirley to the Meiji Jinju shrine. Only the entrance gate to the shrine was impressive. The rest of the shrine was not very special. From the shrine we went to Harajuku for people watching. I wanted to see the famous cos-play girls. We saw only few of those, but we saw many other young people with fashionable cloths. Went back to the subway station in the narrow streets lined with clothing stores. Shirley fell bad because of the heat, so we entered a 7-eleven store to stay cool.

From the Shibuya station we went to the Vegan Healing Cafe. It is a very small restaurant with a single waiter, who is also the cook and the cashier. The food was good. Shirley fell so bad when we left that I called a taxi to take us back to the hotel (about 20 minutes of walk time).

Later Dan and I visited a few music stores (HMV), a manga store, and tower records book store.

In the evening we had a typical "lost in translation" situation in the 7-Eleven convenience store in the hotel. Rena wanted me to buy her a big fan which did not have a price tag. The store manger refused to ring it, and he started explaining in broken while waving his hands. I could not understand the problem. He then said in perfect English: "Do you speak Japanese?". I said no, and he continued in fluent Japanese. Fortunately, Dan somehow understood his intent. It appeared that the fan is the prize for a raffle for Pokemon products, and you cannot buy it. Since I bought one Pokemon product, I was allowed to participate in the raffle. I did not win this raffle, but then I was asked to pick cards for a different raffle (for buying at 7-Eleven). I won two bottles of bear and one bottle of vodka for buying a few trinkets for Rena.

Japan trip day 3: Tokyo (July 18th, 2009)

Woke up early (as usual) and visited the Tsujiki fish market. Took the first train a little after 5am. The streets were full of people when we left the hotel, and the trains were also full of people. Arrived to the market around 6:10am after the girls went to restroom on the way. The fish market was extremely busy with many motorized carts darting in all directions. Reached the tuna auction place and watched the action. The security guards asked us to move quickly to make room for other tourists. The public viewing place closes at 6:30am.

Ate fresh sushi in a nearby restaurant. Had some trouble explaining what kind of fish we can eat. The magical note that the hotel's customer service person wrote for us did not have the right effect. I suppose it said that we can eat only fish and no rice.

After breakfast we visited the Hama Rikyu garden. The garden was beautiful, but the peaceful scenery was harmed by the background of dense office buildings. It was hot and humid, so we ate ice cream near the lake.

Took the boat to Asakusa, which was pretty boring. This boat ride is recommended when the trees are blossoming. Shirley did not feel well due to the heat, so we returned to the hotel without visiting the Sensoji temple or buying gifts in Nakamise Dori as planned.

Lessons learned: everybody must go to the restroom before leaving the hotel in the morning.

Japan trip day 2: Tokyo (July 17th, 2009)

Bought smart cards for subway rides (Suica cards). Took Dan, Shirley and Rena to the tourist information center in the Tokyo Metropolitan Government (TMG) building in Shinjuku. Shirley had an ankle pain, so we returned to the hotel before taking the train. I then took just Dan to the tourist information center and the observation deck in the TMG building. We saw the neighboring tall buildings from the observation deck, which was not so interesting. We did not visit the impressive citizen's plaza in front of the building. I had low blood sugar at that time.

Afterwards we took the subway to Ginza and visited the Sony building. The Sony building had a large collection of Sony products, but nothing amazing. The only two noteworthy products were a TV that turns itself off when you fall asleep in front of it or when nobody is watching it (presumably to save electricity), and Rolly, which is a round object that rolls and turns according to the music you are listening to.

Got a note in Japanese from the guest services person explaining what kind of food we can eat.

The Suica smart cards can be used to pay for rides in all subway lines and JR lines in Tokyo. You can buy them from ticket vending machines at subway and JR (Japan Rail) stations in Tokyo. You can also use the card to pay in some convenience stores (like Lawson) and some vending machines. The card costs 2,000 yen including a 500 yen deposit. You can recharge the card using ticket vending machines. You must swipe the card both on entry and exit from the subway in order to charge the correct amount. If you swipe the card only on exit, it will deduct the maximal fare from the card. The ticket gate shows the remaining balance of the card on exit. You can also view the balance by inserting the card in the ticket vending machine.

Lessons learnt: everybody must wear socks and sneakers before walking any distance outside the hotel.

Japan trip day 1: Tokyo (July 16th, 2009)

Arrived to Cerulian Tower hotel in Tokyo by taking a bus from Narita airport. Got two large connected rooms (2118 and 2119). Bought food at 7-Eleven in the building. Severe jet lag.